Whanganui

Set on the banks of the Whanganui River, with its recently revived city centre, this is a decent place to visit for a short stay. It is an old town with pleasant feel despite a still contentious history.

A site of tribal settlement since the mid 14th century trouble began when the Europeans turned up in the 1830’s (well there’s a shock). The real problems started when the Maoris realised that what they thought had been a friendly ritual gift turned out to be ‘payment’ for the land rights to the whole area. Bloodshed was inevitable and even now the dispute simmers quietly on.

Whilst in the town (population just over 40,000) visit the Wanganui Regional Museum. One of the oldest and the best of its kind in the country, this museum concentrates on the culture and history of the area. Surrounding the museum is the Queens Park, which also contains the Sarjeant Gallery, a contemporary art museum.

A seemingly soothing place, the Moutoa Gardens, belie the importance of this green space. Claimed as Maori land this Park came to international notice when Maoris occupied it for four months. Although the courts found against the Maoris neither side in the dispute covered itself in glory.

For the best view of the town, take the short climb up Durie Hill or to see it from the river visit the Riverboat Centre. The river has long been the lifeblood of the town. Riverboat excursions are on the Waimarie, a restored 19th century paddle steamer that was rescued from the bottom of the river in 1993.
The river also forms the centrepiece of the nearby Whanganui National Park. There are trails to walk, colonial and tribal historical sites to visit and all manner of water sports to engage in.

Accommodation is high quality, fairly priced and readily available. The bars and restaurants are good and solid if unspectacular.