San Francisco

Where LA sprawls San Francisco soars. This has to be one of the most recognised and distinctive cities in the world. Famed as home of the counter culture San Francisco has given the world Ginsberg, Kerouac and the beats in the 50's; hippies and the summer of love in the 60's followed by the emergence into the daylight of the gay scene in the 70's and 80's. There are iconic structures everywhere none more so than the Golden Gate Bridge or the prison island, Alcatraz.

As with so many Californian cities settlement began with the coming of Spanish missionaries in 1776. Also, as with many other cities, the real surge in growth didn't occur until much later. In the case of San Francisco, the real spur to development was the Gold Rush in 1848 and the coming of the railroad in 1869. Initially the city was a wild and lawless place of bars and brothels. However, things began to become a little calmer and respectable, with the onset of significant public improvement works, when the earthquake of 1906 hit. Although most of the town was wiped out, reconstruction began immediately on the splendid city we see today. The cities economy has boomed in the past based on money from the port and military spending. More recent booms have been based on dot.com start-up wealth (now gone, like so much scotch mist) and the disposable income of 'yuppies' and the cash the affluent gay community pumped into the economy.

San Francisco retains its atmosphere of offering an alternative lifestyle; people still flock here to live because of this. It is an ever-changing, vibrant place that, considering the size of its population, that punches way above its weight in terms of cultural influence.

Golden Gate Bridge

One of the symbols of the city is this 4200-ft span bridge. It opened in 1937 and it is still an awe-inspiring site today. To get the best idea of its size take a stroll across this also gives great views of other parts of the city.

Golden Gate Park

A large, safe and beautifully landscaped park this is a favourite haunt for all sorts of people from joggers through to the skaters and up to polo players. Despite its popularity, the park is large enough to accommodate them all without feeling squashed in. The park also contains the California Academy of Sciences, a great place to take the kids, and the Steinhart Aquarium. There is also the extremely popular Japanese Tea Garden.

The Castro and The Haight

The Castro is the epicentre of gay San Francisco although as the gay world has become more mainstream the atmosphere here has become more refined. It is a great place to go, wander around and people watch.

The Haight is, as with the Castro, a more mature and refined place than it was. Here, in the 60's, was where the hippies first emerged. Again, this is a place to just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere. The shops are still a little eccentric with second hand books, clothes and record stores still in evidence. Not the place it was but worth a look nonetheless.

Fisherman's Wharf

Anything garish and obviously commercial tends to stick out like a sore thumb in San Francisco. Fishermans Wharf is that sore thumb. A well-known attraction that you may regret having visited in the light of what the rest of the place is like.

Alcatraz

One of the worlds most famed places of incarceration. Opened as a prison in 1934 it held some of America's most infamous criminals, including Al Capone, for nearly thirty years. Its position in the middle of the freezing cold, swirling waters of San Francisco Bay made it allegedly impossible to escape from. Legend has it that nine people got off the island but never made it to dry land. Famed for its brutally harsh regime Alcatraz is now a popular tourist attraction. Not to be missed.

Cable Car Rides

Another symbol of the city that still runs - just - today. Once the cable cars covered 110 miles of the city streets and hills, this is now down to just ten. It is a unique way to see views of the city and it is something you have seen hundreds of times at the movies.

California Palace of the Legion of Honour

San Francisco has many decent museums, some small and quirky others larger and more mainstream. The Palace of the Legion of Honour is thought by many to be the pick of the bunch. Standing on its own overlooking the ocean, it is worth a visit for the location alone. The museum contains works from the Renaissance, by the Dutch and Flemish masters and the Impressionists. Artists include Rembrandt, Titian, Monet, Renoir and Cezanne. There is also a considerable amount of space given over to the work of Rodin.

Food Drink and a Place to Sleep

Whilst California is on an anti alcohol health kick San Francisco doesn't care, this makes it a great place to go drinking. Many bars and restaurants also offer live music. Live bands of all sorts can be seen at a variety of venues all across the city. San Francisco has a deserved reputation for the quality of its food. There are immigrant enclaves that offer the best in ethnic cuisine and the seafood is to die for. Hotels and hostels are all good quality and prices cover all levels. You are advised to book well in advance; it is a very popular place.