Kingston

Lets not beat around the bush, if Jamaica has a bad reputation then Kingston, the capital, is the main reason. True enough there are areas to avoid by day and night; there are gang-related problems and there is crushing poverty. Is there a major city where the same isn't true? To only pay attention to the negative side of the city, to be swayed by tabloid headline writers, is to risk missing out on one of the Caribbean's liveliest places.

For many reasons Kingston is the heart of the island. Culturally it is the home of reggae and even now is influential on the global music scene. This is where the best clubs, theatres and restaurants are to be discovered. The Museums are worth a look as is historical Port Royal.

Catastrophe in Port Royal, when fire followed earthquake at the turn of the 17th century, kick-started Kingston's growth. Much of Port Royals population fled across the harbour to Kingston looking for a more secure place to live. This growth led to Kingston overhauling Spanish Town as the Islands capital in 1872. This led to a boom but the poorer inhabitants missed out and a divide began to open between rich and poor that continues to this day. Tourists started to favour the newer and safer coastal resort towns and the spiral of problems began afresh.

There are encouraging signs that things are improving. Investment has improved the economic lot of the poor and increased policing has caused reductions in crime in some of the worst affected areas.

The city is divided roughly in two. Downtown is the industrial powerhouse of the city whilst Uptown is where the hotels, clubs, restaurants and shopping are sited. Visitors spend most of their time Uptown.

Things to Do. Places to See

The two chief attractions of the Uptown area are the Bob Marley Museum and the Devon House. The Islands first black millionaire, George Stiebel, a former gold prospector, built this house at the tail end of the 19th century. The house was bought by the government in 1967 and now houses a fine collection of European and Caribbean antique furniture. Nearby are the Kings House and Jamaica House homes of the Governor-General and the Prime Minister respectively. The African Museum, reflecting Jamaica's heritage, is part of the Devon House complex.

The major cultural highlight of the downtown area is the National Gallery. This is devoted to works of art that have been produced by native Jamaicans including works from the 'Jamaican School' dating from the 1920's to the present day.

For a glimpse into Jamaica's days of piracy it is worth taking a trip out to Port Royal, this was a base from which privateers, buccaneers and downright pirates plundered Spanish ships in passage to and from the New World.

Bob Marley

Marley is the one true global star to have come from Jamaica. He is at the centre of the reggae music industry and as a Rastafarian, he played a significant part in the spread of this religion.

Marleys music was simple enough, African drumming to Jamaican rhythm with electric rock guitars, the lyrics, however, spoke with a greater depth. Marleys message was one of love and unity and it is this that has made him such an important artist.

The street life of Kingston was an early inspiration to Marley and it was here that he spent much of his life. The Bob Marley Museum is based around the house that he lived in. The museum is small but well set up with all kinds of Marley Memorabilia and the full tour takes an hour.

For those wishing to pay further homage there is also the Bob Marley Mausoleum. This is situated inland at Nine Mile and is where he spent much of his early life. Rastafarianism is a non-violent religion whose devotees believe that God (Jah) will lead the Blacks out of oppression to freedom. Equality amongst races is preached along with the divinity of the Emperor Haile Selassie. The creed of Rastafarianism along with Reggae and Marleys success has done much to increase Black Nationalism over the years.

Marleys legacy continues to this day with the Bob Marley Foundation continuing to support young Jamaican artists as they struggle to make their way, following in their hero's footsteps.

Eating, Drinking and Sleeping in Kingston

There are loads of great places to go boozing in Jamaica. The locals are justifiably proud of their two main tipples Red Stripe Lager and Rum. The Island is also well served for clubs to suit all tastes. Uptown Kingston has the Islands best choice of Restaurants. The seafood, as you may expect, is stunning and reasonably priced but for a true taste of Jamaica try Jerk Chicken. This is Chicken coated with spices, marinated and then slowly cooked over hot coals or in a pit. It is available on street corners and is delicious. Kingston, as the capital city, has a fair choice of hotels most are in the Uptown, New Kingston district.