Key West

Lately Key West has begun to let its image as a freewheeling, vaguely eccentric hideaway slip. The cause of this is the developers who have moved in looking to update the place as a modern resort. The locals don't like this and despite the efforts of the men in shiny suits, Key West is still one of the most fascinating places to visit in the whole USA.

The island is the most southerly point of the continental USA and the last in the 'Key' chain. At only 90 miles distance from Cuba - closer than to mainland Florida - the Latino influence is visible everywhere. The mix of pleasing climate and carefree lifestyle has made Key West a magnet for artists and writers in the past and the same factors attracted the gay community.

Initially Key West came to prominence as a pirate's hideout then a port and then a naval base. This ensured a prosperity that continues to the present.

Hemmingway

Most notable of all the literary folk to have made Key West his home was Ernest Hemmingway. Even now the islanders make a fuss of his presence here.

Hemmingway arrived in 1931 and left in 1940 having written some of the great works of 20th century fiction. Whilst on Key West he wrote the novels For Whom The Bell Tolls and (my favourite) The Old Man and the Sea amongst others.

There is an annual look-alike competition at which some plump fool in a beard is crowned champion 'Papa' Hemmingway for a year. There is also the bearded wonders house. The house is (allegedly) pretty much as it was when Hemmingway left and there are tours daily. Hemmingway loved cats and the descendants of his feline friends still roam around the property today. Keep an eye out for the ones with six toes, they are supposed to be lucky.

Sloppy Joes vs Captain Tony's

You need to pay attention for this bit. There are two bars on the island. When Hemmingway was on the island he would drink in a bar called Sloppy Joes but that was sold to someone who renamed it Captain Tony's. Now some bright entrepreneurial spark thought 'I know I'll open a bar just round the corner from the original Sloppy Joes and I'll call it Sloppy Joes'. What is more, to add to the flimsy Hemmingway credentials he was trying to establish, he hung the place with photos and other memorabilia. The long and the short of it is the authentic Sloppy Joes is now Captain Tony's whilst Sloppy Joes is a plastic haunt of the unenlightened tourist. I loved both!

Did that all make sense?

Wrecked

Many of the earlier inhabitants of the island earned a crust as licensed wreckers. These bold seamen made their living salvaging cargo and rescuing crews from ships in distress or already sunk.

These fellows, who helped Key West to its early financial success, are commemorated in the Duval Street Wreckers Museum and the Key West Shipwreck Historeum (is that a real word?). The latter of these is reckoned the best.

More up to date is Mel Fishers Treasure Exhibit. This contains artefacts from two Spanish treasure ships sunk nearby in 1622. They were discovered by Mr Fisher - a former surf shop owner turned latter day Buccaneer - in 1985. The booty is estimated to be worth millions.

On the Street

Whilst there are good things to see and do all around Key West one of the best is one of the simplest. Just take to the streets for a show that is ever changing and surprising. Bend your footsteps towards the Bahamian Quarter, with lush foliage hanging off the old style Cuban architecture it is how Key West has looked for the best part of a hundred years.

Despite the 'restoration' work that has gone on, there are still many of the quirky, arty shops and galleries that helped give the island it's reputation for eccentricity to be found. If the walking gets too much then take the weight off in one of the many decent bars to be found on every corner.

Sundowners?

One of the features that visitors to Key West will tell you about on their return is the sunsets. They are truly spectacular. Find a bar or a beach sit down with a few cocktails and relax as the sun slowly sinks below the horizon.

The way not to enjoy the sunset is in Mallory Square at the daily sunset celebration.

The best beaches are at Fort Zachary Taylor State Historic Site or Smathers Beach.

Eating, Drinking and Sleeping

The bars are incredible, there is so much variation and so much vitality it is difficult not to be captivated by the bar scene. The restaurants do ample justice to the reputation the island has a great place to eat. You must try the Conch Fritters and Key Lime Pie apart from the other seafood all served with a Cuban / Caribbean, spicy twist.

As something of a Snowbird destination, you will need to make reservations for rooms in the winter. Prices reflect this demand and can be as much as double the prices you can expect to pay in the summer. There are limited amounts of accommodation to suit all budgets.