Glasgow

Literally Glasgow translates as 'dear green place' but it is only just recently that the city has begun to shed its image as a 'grim, grey place'. Glasgow has long been associated in the minds of the populace as an industrial powerhouse of the British Empire and then as a failed symbol of British manufacturing.

This view was somewhat reversed as a result of eighties investment and then being made European City of Culture in 1990. The city has carried the renewed optimism and enthusiasm forward to the present day and it continues to be a place that positively bubbles with life.

Glasgow began life as a monastery on the banks of the Clyde in the sixth century. Steady growth followed with a town charter in 1175, the mid fifteenth century saw the advent of Scotland's second university (on the site of that first monastery). This in turn led to a Bishopric and thence to city status in 1492. Due to the river, trade with other parts of the world, especially the colonies, grew rapidly. This growth, accelerated further by the industrial revolution, saw Glasgow become the world's centre for shipbuilding and the so-called second city of the Empire.

Such success brought prosperity for some but there was an inevitable downside. Industry has an insatiable demand for a workforce; initially Highlanders, dispossessed by the 'Clearances' fed this and then hordes of Irish fleeing the potato famine began to arrive.

So many of these poorly paid workers were crowded together in huge tenement buildings. Alcohol became a problem for many, violence was commonplace and Protestant against Catholic enmities took root. Many of these problems became worse as the once great industries of the Clyde began to fail. The 60's and 70's were hard times indeed. Since then the city has picked itself up, dusted itself down and now holds its - albeit scarred - head up as high as any in Europe. With very good reason.

What to See and Where to Go

The Cathedral

On the site of the cities original settlement, the first cathedral was built in 1136 only to be destroyed in 1192. It was soon rebuilt but only completed in the latter part of the fifteenth century. The cathedral is somewhat unique in that it remained intact through the orgy of destruction that swept the country in the wake of the 16th century Reformation. This makes it one of very few surviving examples from the 13th century. This was due to the intervention of the city guilds and the speed with which Protestantism was adopted.

Notable features include the tomb of St Mungo, gorgeous stained glass windows. The Blacader aisle (designed by the first Bishop Blacader, presumably aided and abetted by Baldric) has a ceiling covered in high relief bosses.

Glasgow's other Religion

Religion in Glasgow is something of a contentious issue. There has long been a sectarian divide between the Catholic and Protestant communities. Nowhere is this divide clearer than in the world of the city's other major religion: Football. Celtic and Rangers are the two teams and matches between the two, or as they are known 'old firm derby's' are some of the most passionate sporting occasions you will ever witness. The two sets of rival fans share a bitter rivalry that runs along the lines of their respective religions. Catholic for Celtic (playing at Parkhead) and Protestant for Rangers (playing at Ibrox).

The two teams are by a long way the biggest and the best in the country and indeed boast the largest number of fans - debatably - in Europe. They meet probably at least five or six times in a season catch a match if you can.

Glasgow is also home to the national football side who play at Hampden Park. This is the location of the Scottish Football Museum, which is worth a look, for fans of the game at least.

The Burrell Collection

Glasgow boasts some truly splendid collections, museums and galleries yet head and shoulders above the rest stands the Burrell collection. Granted to the city by Sir William Burrell in 1944 it came to its current home in 1983 and is widely acclaimed as the centrepiece of the cities cultural rebirth. Sir William, a wealthy shipping magnate, collected on the basis of whether he liked the item or not, this led to the collection being perhaps more eclectic than it may have otherwise been. The collection includes galleries devoted to Ancient Civilisations, Oriental art, Medieval European art, some dazzling tapestries and a reconstruction of the dining hall at Hutton Castle, Burrell's home.

The building that houses the collection is set in the grounds of Pollok Park a setting that perfectly complements the exhibits. The park also contains Pollok House a fine example of 18th century architecture that also contains a modest but very decent collection of European art.

The Hunterian Bequests

This consists of two collections both worth a look. Dr Hunter was a physician with particular interest in anatomy and pathology. He gave his collection of archaeological and natural history artefacts to Glasgow University and the Hunterian museum is Scotland's oldest dating from 1807.

More popular and widely known is the Hunterian Art Gallery. The chief reason for this is that it houses the largest collection of work by James McNeil Whistler outside of the USA. There is also a recreation of the house in which Charles Rennie Mackintosh lived from 1906 to 1914.

The other major stop off point for culture vultures is the Art Gallery and Museum at Kelvingrove. It has 17th Century Dutch and 19th century French paintings of the highest order. In addition to this there are works from the 'Glasgow Boys' school of art.

The best way to discover something of the city's history is to visit the Peoples Palace. This is a cultural museum that traces the history from the twelfth century right up to the present day.

Charles Rennie Mackintosh

If ever you have admired or even seen Nouveau Art then chances are that it is something either designed by or influenced by the designer/architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. As a 16 year in 1884 he attended the Glasgow School of Art it was in designing a new building for this organization that first brought him to prominence. The school still stands and is reckoned to be the pinnacle of the mans achievements. However, other works still survive and his influence can be seen everywhere in the city. Fans should also try and take in the Willow Tea Rooms, The Lighthouse (formerly the home of the Glasgow Herald) and the House for an Art Lover. This was only built in 1996 from plans Mackintosh initially submitted in 1906 and shows him at his best. The whole design, including furniture and fittings, are stamped with his own inimitable style.

A break from all the culture if you please??

OK so the galleries, museums and the generally arty cultural scene, rivalling anything in Europe, are the thing that has been central to the revival of the city but, there is much more than that. The people are lively, gritty, unpretentious and straightforward. There is a warmth and a passion that can be seen anywhere, in yuppie bars or unreconstructed East End pubs.

Glasgow supports a lively club scene and there is live music all over from traditional folk to stadium rock. Aside from the Art School there are two Universities in the city all of which adds to the image of Glasgow as a dynamic place to visit.

For shopping check out Argyle Street, Buchanan Street and the famed Sauchiehull Street.

For more peaceful pursuits visit the Botanic Gardens or Kelvingrove Park.

Food, Drink and a Place to Sleep

Scotland has more civilized opening hours in its myriad pubs than in other parts of the UK. This coupled with the array of choice in pubs and bars make Glasgow a place of truly mythic proportions to go boozing. The same is true of places to eat. There are examples of cuisine from across the globe but traditional Glaswegian cooking ('Ah dinnae care whit it is 'slong as its hot and shiny') is thankfully not so common. Try the excellent local food -the seafood and the beef- prepared by chefs influenced by the finest cuisines in the world. There are places to stay that will suit all budgets from top hotels to hostels and B&B.