Edinburgh

Despite the efforts of its larger neighbour Edinburgh is still the definitive Scottish City. Seat of government, both in the distant past and again now, it has long been the white-collar counterpart to blue collar Glasgow. This is where the culture is, the National Museums and Galleries and site of the new Parliament. It has fine old buildings from any period over the last thousand years. It has a thriving University. These elements all come together to make it an interesting, charming place to visit.

The Castle

Now this is a place that has seen some action. There is evidence to suggest that there has been a fortress of some kind here since the 6th century. The oldest part of the existing structure dates from the 11th century. The castle has passed backward and forwards between the Scots and the English many times over the years. The castle is a mish-mash of building styles, this is symptomatic of the number of times it has been burnt or knocked down. It remains a strong symbol of 'Scottishness' even more so since the return of the Stone of Scone (the fabled 'Stone of Destiny'). This stone was stolen by (guess who?) the English in 1296 when it was built into the throne on which English Kings were crowned. It was returned to Scotland in 1996, assuming that this was the stone and the wily old Scots hadn't switched it prior to its theft all those years ago.

This is probably the single biggest draw in the city so be prepared to be just one in a big crowd.

The Festival

Every year, for two weeks in August, the city goes nuts.

The main festival is a world class arts festival featuring some of the greatest performers from the worlds of classical opera, music and theatre. Almost as well known is the Edinburgh Fringe, which has nurtured some of Britain and the world's great comic talents. The Fringe includes all manner of weird and wonderful performances some of them great but some insanely dire; whatever you fancy you can find it, either in a mainstream theatre, tiny stage in a pub or in a Taxi! (Yes a Taxi).

At the same time, there is also a Jazz Festival, TV and Film Festivals a Military Tattoo and Book Festival. The only draw back with this plethora of cultural goodies is that it makes accommodation impossible to find. Book early.

Museums

Edinburgh has a number of decent museums and galleries. The National Gallery of Scotland may not be large but it is perfectly formed. Each of the exhibits has been carefully chosen and represents many of the artists at the top of their game. There are fine representations from European masters as well as from Turner, Reynolds, Gainsborough and Constable. Naysmith and Raeburn are the most notable Scottish artists on show.

The National Museum of Scotland covers all aspects of life in Scotland from the earliest arrivals to the modern day. An excellent primer for those interested in Scottish heritage and history.

Other museums include the Writers Museum, which celebrates the lives of the most famed Scottish literary figures, Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. Aimed at a younger audience is the Museum of Childhood, a lively and noisy place at all times. Also worth a peek is the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.

Royal Mile

Stretching from the Castle to the Palace of Holyrood and almost a mile in length is this most fascinating of boulevards. Along the route there a number of churches, museums and other historic buildings. It is worth while taking some time to fully explore the Mile and its offshoots. John Knox House is worth a visit for the building if not out of interest in the founder of the Scottish Presbyterian Church. The Assembly Hall -home of the new Scottish Government whilst bigger premises are constructed - can be seen here and for those who like a 'wee dram' there is the Scotch Whiskey Heritage Centre.

All things Holyrood

Holyrood has been the royal quarter of the city since the 12th century. Visitors now can visit the Palace of Holyrood (open to the public when the Queen is not in residence). The palace has seen a number of events in Scotland's turbulent past, most especially the brutal stabbing of Rizzio, Mary Queen of Scots secretary, by her husband Lord Darnley. Architecturally the palace is mixed although in the main it is the 17th century Palace of Charles II.

In the Palace ground sit is also possible to see the ruins of Holyrood Abbey the church that was built to serve the Kings of Scotland whilst at the Palace. Very little remains of the original structure.

To get a taste for Scottish Landscape visit Holyrood Park. The park is not huge but it is a wild, wide-open space with many examples of what the visitor may expect of the scenery away from the city. The Salisbury Crags are a prominent feature of the city skyline and affords great views over the town. The best views can be obtained by climbing the extinct volcano of Arthur's Seat, a very popular and evocative sight.

Eating Drinking and Sleeping

Edinburgh is a pub-goers town. There are many to choose from of all kinds many offer food, some offer live music, all offer the chance of a good time. Beer and Whisky are the main tipples and the choice is prodigious for both.

Accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets can be found in Edinburgh but the top, centrally located, hotels can be very expensive. Book early; summer is always busy, as are other holiday times, festival time is crackers.

Many peoples idea of the traditional Scottish menu (greasy and fried, these are the people who gave the world the deep fried Mars bar) has been turned on its head recently. Restaurants offer the best of the ingredients the country has to offer. Salmon from Scottish rivers, steak from the Aberdeen Angus cattle, glorious seafood and fresh vegetables. On top of the native culinary delights, there is a fair range of international cuisine on offer. Try Haggis but those without a strong constitution should not ask what it is made from.