Dunedin

Where is it?

Tucked away in the far south-eastern corner of the South Island is Dunedin. Sitting right on the coast at the end of the Otago Harbour with a view out towards the Otago Peninsula and ringed by mountains to the rear, Dunedin is not the cold miserable place it is often portrayed as being.

What's it like?

The fourth largest city in the country, Dunedin was once the pre-eminent settlement and centre of commerce and culture for the whole country. The name is a direct translation, into Gaelic, of Edinburgh, an indicator of where the roots of its original European settlers lie. Sharing street and district names with Edinburgh plus the hilly location, fantastic Gothic style architecture and the weather, mean parallels with the auld country are impossible to avoid.
The Maori had inhabited the area since the 12th century but by the 19th century, the job begun by a brutal intertribal war was completed by diseases (measles and the flu) brought in by European whalers. By 1850, the Maori population was almost wiped out and the bloodline was only preserved by intermarriage with the migrant whalers. All along, the city was earmarked as an area to be settled by Scottish Presbyterian immigrants and although English and Irish arrived in numbers shortly afterwards, the Scots had already left their indelible mark on the cityscape.
In 1861 gold was discovered 60 miles inland from Dunedin. The traffic, both human and material, from the ensuing gold rush went through the Dunedin's port and the town prospered and grew. In a very short period it became the most prominent city in the country, a position it was to enjoy until superseded by Auckland in the early 20th century. Although the gold soon dwindled, the port ensured Dunedin's long-term prosperity and now the city is a busy cultured place with some great architecture and a lively atmosphere.

What to See and Do.

Smack in the heart of the city is the Octagon, head here and you won't be far away from the main attractions. The Octagon is a pleasing tree filled space surrounded by some of the best buildings in town. The dominating feature of the Octagon is the Municipal Chambers building, a splendid example of Dunedin's architectural heyday, built in 1880.
A short walk away lie the city's museums. The best of them is the Otago Museum, a multi-disciplinary place that has recently been extended. Exhibits include natural history, including some Victorian curiosities, and Maori history. Don't miss the war canoe. The museum also includes Discovery World and when you hear a title like that, you know the phrase 'hands on' is never going to be far behind. Strictly for the kids, this bit.
The Dunedin Public Art Gallery does exactly what it says on the label. Most of the space is given over to New Zealand art of the last century and a half, as well as exhibits from various European masters. Worth a visit if only to look at the recently restored buildings that house the collections.
The New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame is for fans only whilst the Otago Settlers Museum gives an insight into early colonial life in the area. Again, this is worth a look for the building alone; an art deco former bus depot foyer.
The real gem of Dunedin's history is a house. 'Olveston' is a short step (less than a mile) from the Octagon. It was bequeathed to the city in 1966, prior to that it had been home to wealthy trading family, the Theomins. Built in 1906, the house is tremendous; the Theomins were great collectors with a passion for art and travel, which is reflected in the art, antiques and furniture that cram the place.
Otago is home to New Zealand's oldest university founded in 1869 and still flourishing, the grounds are worth a stroll through.
For more strolling, a visit to the Botanic Gardens or down to Tunnel Beach will repay the slight effort. Rather more strenuous would be a walk up Baldwin Street. With an incline of 1:2.9, it is officially the world's steepest street. You'll need ropes and stout boots to ascend the summit.
Great beaches surround the city. All except Tomahawk Beach should be Ok for swimming and guards are on hand during the summer.
If your schedule allows make time for a trip on the Taieri Gorge Railway. Breathtaking.
In short, Dunedin is a brilliant place for a visit.

Eating, Sleeping and Drinking

There are loads of great pubs and bars and a buzzing live music scene (the Dunedin Sound) especially when the students are in town. There is a casino (again, check out the building) and several good night clubs.
Good food is available everywhere but the epicentre is the area around the Octagon. The choice is massive from international cuisine to fast food takeaways.
There are all types of accommodation from campervan and campsites on the perimeter to Hotels in the centre. Book to avoid disappointment during the height of the summer season.