Darwin

Where is it?

If you are visiting ‘the Top End’ then inevitably you will spend some time in Darwin. As the only settlement of significant size, Darwin is a major destination for travellers to the extreme north of the country. The territory capital, Darwin, lies on the gnarled coast at the mouth of Port Darwin.

What is it like?

A lively, modern town that has enjoyed very mixed fortunes in the past. Settled initially in an attempt to stave off the threat of the Dutch or French gaining a foothold in the north of the country Darwin was named for the genius of evolution Charles Darwin. His ship of discovery, The Beagle, had been the first to sail into the harbour in 1839 although the name was not formally adopted until 1911. At this time the city has just about recovered form the cyclone that had levelled the place in 1897. By 1911, the town was a respectably sized settlement a centre of government and administration for the territory and trading post serving the local mines (the gold rush came and went in the 1870’s) and industry. Growth really took off due to Darwins strategic importance to the War in the Pacific against the Japanese. Inevitably, this made Darwin a target and the town was bombed by the Japanese. The need to get men and supplies into the area caused roads to be built finally linking Darwin directly with the rest of the country. Following the war, another cyclone (Tracy) wreaked havoc; once again the town was pretty well knocked flat.
Since then regeneration has been based around a slightly changed perspective, Darwin now presents itself as a tourist centre and gateway to the Asian Tiger economies to the north.

What to see and do.

Whilst in the top end you have to visit the National Parks that lie there. Kakadu National Park is the best known thanks to Crocodile Dundee and this World Heritage listed site is a must see area of still largely untrammelled beauty. For bird and animal life, for the waterfalls and scenery, rock art sites for it’s mangroves swamps, pockets of rain forest and much more you will forever regret missing Kakadu.
To the east of Kakadu lies another marvel, the empty spaces of Arnhamland, a massive Aboriginal reserve. Within its borders, the indigenous population continue to live as they have done for thousands of years. There is little infrastructure here and access is controlled so tourists are rare. Get on one of the officially sanctioned guided tours for a glimpse into another world.
The other large national park is Litchfield mostly consisting of the sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range. From this plateau gush several waterfalls and springs. Unlike the previous two parks, Litchfield claims to be Crocodile free.
Croc’s are very much part of the NT natural eco system with Saltwater/Estuarine Crocodiles being at the top of the food chain. Be careful where you swim, the massive ‘salties’, at up to 7m long the worlds largest reptiles, like to dine on tourists.
For a closer, safer look at these prehistoric monsters (how did they survive when the dinosaurs died out??) visit Crocodylus Park a research centre and farm where you can get to appreciate just how primeval these creatures are.
In the town itself the Museum and Art Gallery of the NT is well worth a visit. There’s loads of Aboriginal stuff as well as information and exhibits about Cyclone Tracy. Elsewhere is the Fannie Bay Gaol Museum, take a tour of cells that have housed all sorts from lepers to boat people. There is also a Military Museum and the Aviation Heritage Centre both of which throw an unexpected light on the history of conflict and development in the NT.
For the more active there is a choice of wreck diving, sailing, swimming (always check before just diving in to any body of water, if a croc doesn’t get you, a box jellyfish, very nasty, could) cycling or walking.

Eating, sleeping and drinking.

By a long distance, the best food in the territory is to be found in Darwin. There is a wide choice of food to suit all pockets. Love seafood? Then you can’t go wrong, the same is true of all sorts of Asian cuisine. The true epicure will be tempted by exotic meat offerings of Kangaroo or Crocodile. You really would have to go into a bar and shout “two crocodile sandwiches please, and make it snappy!”
This is a beer kind of town; they blow the froth off nearly twice as many schooners of amber nectar than anywhere else in the country. The Dodge City feel of many of the city pubs has been polished to something more genteel but still lively. The biggest concentration of bars is in Mitchell Street.
As a transit town for the attractions elsewhere in the Territory Darwin has loads of accommodation, backpacker hostel to classy hotels just take your pick. Best prices are to be found in the rainy season when the monsoon hits.